October 31, 2012

 Day 21:  Chumoa (~9235'/2815m) to Lukla (9360'/2850m)

There was no frost on the tent this morning.  Very exciting!  

We walked for all of a few minutes this morning before being invited in for tea by Sangye's daughter, Lhakpa.  We had a lovely visit and she and her friend presented all of us with scarves.  Then back on the trail.........  There were great colours out there today - blue rivers, green trees, lots of gardens with loads of greenery and flowers.  We had a really long walk to lunch.  People gave up about 12:30 and stopped at a teahouse in Thado Kosi for tea and a snack.  We were there about an hour and then walked about another half hour to lunch at the top of a hill.  We made slow progress before lunch, but then caught up with the dzopkios and followed them at a painfully slow pace for a long time (until people lost patience and went for tea).  I don't know where we lost Pemba's dad, but it seemed to be Sangye and Pemba driving the herd.  

Note the small monastery built into the rock.

It was a pretty easy walk overall - a little bit up and a little bit down.  We left camp about 8:40 and got in to Lukla around 4ish.  We had a really neat approach to Lukla.  We could see the planes coming and going (busy day), but really couldn't see the village until we entered through the gate.  It seems like a pretty busy place, after being where we've been for a few weeks.  Lots of people in the streets playing board games, tons of kids running around, and dogs running loose.  Over the course of the trip we have seen a lot of people repairing running shoes - nothing gets thrown out here unless it is absolutely irrepairable.  

Back in Lukla

I checked into my room and then went to the cafe for a chocolate doughnut.  I've gotta say - I feel about as dirty as I have all trip.  When it was cold and we were at altitude, I didn't move fast enough to work up a sweat and sunscreen was confined to my face.  Today I had shorts and a short-sleeved shirt on, so sunscreen and sweat conspired to make me feel pretty grimy.  I had no running water at the hotel, and I didn't bother with a wet-wipe bath; so close to "civilization", yet so far.....

Sangye rounded us up and took us over to Dandi's house for tea.  Very nice!  He also introduced us to his sister who runs the Khumbu Lodge, where we returned to for dinner.  

Here are some things that I won't miss when I get home:  spam, weiners, cabbage, mysterious sauces, deep fried veggies & fruit, yak cheese, canned fruit, bread & jam, porridge, etc.  Even with all the potatoes we've eaten, I'm still ok with them.  They've all been good and cooked well.  Also - the soup was nice every day.  

After dinner everyone emptied out their first-aid kits and medical supplies/drugs.  Some went to the team (primarily Geljen who has small children) and some stuff (especially prescription meds) will go to the hospital.  The task for tomorrow is to keep our kit bags at 15kg and load up our day packs with any excess.  We're going to try to catch a 10am flight, so tea at 7.