October 28, 2012

 Day 18.  Gokyo (15,584'/4750m) to Machermo (14,468'/4410m)

It started snowing yesterday afternoon while we were in the tents before dinner.  It continued for a bit and accumulated to a few centinmetres.  Liba recorded -8C in her tent this morning.  Everything was a bit frosty!  While the surrounding landscape was very beautiful with a coat of fresh snow on it, I didn't want to risk crappy footing coming down Gokyo Ri.  Besides, I was probably too tired and weak anyway.  My cough is still pretty ugly.  In any case - I passed on scampering up there.  Dan, Lenka, and Helen went up.  It took them about 2 hours, and they spent almost an hour at the top.  The views apparently were fabulous.  They got back in to camp between 3:45 and 4:30.  

Gokyo Ri

Cho Oyu (8210m/26,906') as seen from Goyko

Dudh Pokhari (aka Gokyo Lake)

Meanwhile, the rest of us left Gokyo shortly after 9.  It was a really pleasant and scenic (and net downhill) walk today.  Very little uphill to speak of.  We passed by several stunning lakes and along some rip-roaring glacial run-off.  I had Sangye as my personal guide most of the way.  Since it was a short walk, we had the tents out early enough to dry the sleeping bags out for a bit.  They stitched together the bottom of my kit bag and I got the pins back.  I got in my tent after lunch and had a little nap.  I missed tea time!  But, no great loss as I had a fairly big lunch.  It seems like days since I've seen Vladka eat anything; I hope she's doing OK.  The dining room is heated pretty well today, but the water in the indoor toilet is already frozen at 5pm.  The outdoor toilet is barn-style - oh joy...  We're camping in the yak field beside the lodge.

Approaching the second lake - TabocheTsho

Congrats to Helen, Lenka, and Dan!  We had pizza for dinner that was actually pretty good.  After dinner the "chang" (rice beer) came out and all the guides, cooks, porters, and Pemba joined us in the dining room.  They put on quite the dancing performance!  They were joined by the women who run the lodge as well as a neighbour.  A good time was had by all, but apparently this is just a warm-up for the final night.

There is a beautiful clear sky tonight and almost a full moon.  The mountains are highlighted perfectly!  And - my boots are really beginning to stink!!