October 27, 2012

 Day 17.  Thangnak (15,420'/4700m) to Gokyo (15,584'/4750m)

We're back to the original plan for today and tomorrow, which gives us the chance to go up Gokyo Ri tomorrow morning (better chance for clear skies/good views), and then go to Machermo tomorrow night.  Apparently Sangye had altered the plan because he hadn't brought enough kerosene (and perhaps food) to Gokyo.  But - he will send a porter to Machermo to retrieve some kerosene so that we're back to Plan A.  

Last night the lodge was heaven!  1500 rupees, but the comforter was to die for, and I gradually started stripping off clothes.  Socks, fleece pants, tops layers..... until I just had on shorts and a long-sleeved base layer.  Ahhh....  

We left about 8:45 this morning.  It was a cool walk, as we were crossing the rock-covered Ngozumpa Glacier most of the way.  We had good views of Cho Oyu ahead and Cholatse behind.  The glacier that we travelled over was very interesting and ever-changing, although it did have lots of ups and downs. 

Our first view of Cho Oyu

This the glacier underfoot

Cho Oyu

Frozen lake within the glacier

Still on the glacier with Cho Oyu in the background

Gokyo is right beside a beautiful lake, which is similar to the colour of Lake Louise.  It was a fairly short walk today, about 2.5 hours.  I'm still feeling fairly easily winded with the least little bit of uphill.  Not sure how I'll fare in Gokyo Ri tomorrow. 

Approaching Gokyo

Gokyo Lake

I didn't have much for breakfast today - hot chocolate, an egg, a bit of granola and a bite of pancake.  I managed a bit more for lunch - spam, beans, potatoes, bread, and fruit cocktail.  Steve shared some Oreos, and I had some jerky and a Kit Kat.  Gotta say, though, that the Oreos and Kit Kat didn't even taste very good.  

We have a choice of camping or a lodge tonight.  We chose camping.  Other than last night (with the lovely comforter), I usually prefer sleeping in my tent.  It clouded over (as usual) shortly after noon and now (about 4pm) it's starting to get quite chilly.  Time for tea?  

They stuffed Liba's blue kit bag inside mine for transport today and now I have pretty much a blue tube.  It's a bit of a concern since I sent my hockey bag to Machermo and just have a garbage bag inside my blue bag.  I rounded up and used all my safety pins, and hopefully that will hold until the end of the trip.  

There is a Sherpa art gallery here and also some small shops selling books, candy, and toiletries.  We saw two large (huge) eagles by the lake during lunch.