November 2, 2012

 Day 23.  Kathmandu

I ate too much last night; didn't sleep very well.  Or - or maybe I'm just not used to sleeping inside.  Had a shower this morning - yay, but it was a cold one - brrrr!  After returning the blue kit bags to Sangye we had breakfast at 8.  Then we piled into the hotel van and went to ancient district of Patan.  This was once a separate city-state, but is now a suburb of Kathmandu.  "It's an architectural feast, at the centre of which is Durbar Square."  There are certainly a lot of very old Hindu temples.  We chose not to hire a guide so we just wandered around for a bit.  As non-Hindus we couldn't go into the temples and we didn't pay for the museum so we just saw some of the (impressive!) surface stuff.  We went to a "fair trade" store down one of the alleys, where I bought 3 pashminas - one each for Jessica, Sarah & me.  I like them all, so hopefully I'll be able to part with two.  

Then it was off to a roof-top restaurant for lunch, after which we wandered back out and caught taxis to Pashupatinath.  "Beside the sacred Bagmati River, this is one of the most revered Hindu temples on the Indian subcontinent.  Entry to the main temple is barred to non-Hindus.  Dedicated to Shiva - the destroyer and creator - stone linga fertility symbols are everywhere.  Cremations take place on the banks of the river, providing a morbid tourist attraction."  It was, indeed, a fascinating place to visit.  We did watch some of the cremation activity, and learned that the average man takes about 3.5 hours to burn and women take about 4 hours, due to generally more water and fat.  The flame is initially set on the lips.  The oldest son initiates the flame for the father, and the youngest son for the mother.  Then straw is piled on top to keep it burning.  There were 3 or 4 cremations going on when we were there.  Apparently they go on continuously.  Once completed, the ashes are put in the river.  This river is apparently used to eventually flow into the Ganges.  The only thing that doesn't burn is the belly button, and this is retrieved by the family.  Bodies are burned within hours of dying.  Different castes are assigned to different sections of the river.  The smell was OK - just smelled like smoke.  

We spent a fair amount of time walking around the area.  There are lots of Hindu religious structures and some really outrageously dressed, coiffed, and coloured holy men (ascetics?) who don't want their pictures taken.  They're also shockingly skinny.  There are tons of phallic symbols about.  The river itself is disgustingly dirty with lots of garbage in it (as well as ashes, raw sewage, and other waste).  From both of the places that we visited today, I get the sense that the Hindu people are much less hygenic than the Buddhists.  But then, I thought that even before today. 

Our taxi drivers are waiting for us; time to go.  Folks were haggling over price, but I thought it was OK.  1500 rps per car to take us from Patan to Pashupatinath to Thamel.  That equates to less than $20.  Driving here is such a nightmare!  I felt exhausted after just sitting in the car for the ride.  Once back to the hotel I got some money changed, bought (and ate) some cookies and chips, and read sections of my Nepal book.  The power is currently off, so no internet or TV.  I took some laundry downstairs to be done; they'll have it back to me by tomorrow night.  Good service.....  Meeting for dinner @ 7.  There went another full day!   

November 1, 2012

 Day 22.  Lukla to Kathmandu.

At 6:30am I started to hear activity at the nearby airport; a good sign that the weather is good for flying.  We had our last breakfast - fried egg and white toast.  Then waited downstairs for a while as the porters gradually took our bags down the street to the airport.  While we were waiting we went into the coffee shop which happened to have a TV.  We caught some BBC news, and saw a report of "Superstorm Sandy".  Holy cow!  We eventually walked over to the airport.  I'm still amazed at the runway (the slope of it), how close it is to the village & lodges, the quick turnaround of the flights, the level of activity (the number of flights coming & going, helicopters, yaks or dzopkios going by the end of the runway, etc.), the apparent chaos inside the terminal building, and then ability to get the right bags on the right flights.  

At about 10 a green and white plane came in, we were beckoned and moments later we were on the plane (about 16 seats) and headed "down" the runway.  It's an interesting feeling, once you know the angle of the runway, to let gravity do its thing and then instead of lifting off, we essentially fall off the end of the runway before lifting back up and into flight.  

Once again, I really enjoyed the views of the landscape from above and all the little specks of civilization, the terraced hillsides and the switchbacked roads - just beautiful!  We had a smooth transition at the airport.  One of Amber's people was there to meet us with a van and driver to take us to our hotel.  Amazing driving - just honk and go amongst no real lanes and lots of cars, trucks, bicycles, motorcycles, pedestrians and cows.  Our rooms weren't ready yet so we had lunch first - chicken fried rice and tibetan bread for me - yum!  I got a room with two beds, so will have to change tomorrow to a single.  Best of all - a shower! and clean clothes!!  The lack of facilities of the last 3 weeks quickly melts away.....

I watched a bit more about Superstorm Sandy on CNN and then we took a van to Bodhnath.  Bodhnath is one of the largest stupas in the world, and is home to a thriving Tibetan community.  I picked up some prayer flags and a few DVDs about Tibet.  I'm obviously quite ignorant when it comes to the Tibetan situation.  I need to learn more.....  I spent some time just people-watching.  Lots of monks, women in traditional dress with very colourful aprons, lots of ritual touching of the various pieces around the stupa and lots of prostrating.

We took a taxi back to the hotel (rush hour traffic - yikes!) and then walked with Sangye to dinner at Pilgrim's.  It was mostly Indian food and was ok, but I ate way too much.  Before heading to bed I repacked my stinky clothes bag.  The smell should be enough to keep customs at bay!  Almost 10:30 before heading to; waaay past my bedtime!  

October 31, 2012

 Day 21:  Chumoa (~9235'/2815m) to Lukla (9360'/2850m)

There was no frost on the tent this morning.  Very exciting!  

We walked for all of a few minutes this morning before being invited in for tea by Sangye's daughter, Lhakpa.  We had a lovely visit and she and her friend presented all of us with scarves.  Then back on the trail.........  There were great colours out there today - blue rivers, green trees, lots of gardens with loads of greenery and flowers.  We had a really long walk to lunch.  People gave up about 12:30 and stopped at a teahouse in Thado Kosi for tea and a snack.  We were there about an hour and then walked about another half hour to lunch at the top of a hill.  We made slow progress before lunch, but then caught up with the dzopkios and followed them at a painfully slow pace for a long time (until people lost patience and went for tea).  I don't know where we lost Pemba's dad, but it seemed to be Sangye and Pemba driving the herd.  

Note the small monastery built into the rock.

It was a pretty easy walk overall - a little bit up and a little bit down.  We left camp about 8:40 and got in to Lukla around 4ish.  We had a really neat approach to Lukla.  We could see the planes coming and going (busy day), but really couldn't see the village until we entered through the gate.  It seems like a pretty busy place, after being where we've been for a few weeks.  Lots of people in the streets playing board games, tons of kids running around, and dogs running loose.  Over the course of the trip we have seen a lot of people repairing running shoes - nothing gets thrown out here unless it is absolutely irrepairable.  

Back in Lukla

I checked into my room and then went to the cafe for a chocolate doughnut.  I've gotta say - I feel about as dirty as I have all trip.  When it was cold and we were at altitude, I didn't move fast enough to work up a sweat and sunscreen was confined to my face.  Today I had shorts and a short-sleeved shirt on, so sunscreen and sweat conspired to make me feel pretty grimy.  I had no running water at the hotel, and I didn't bother with a wet-wipe bath; so close to "civilization", yet so far.....

Sangye rounded us up and took us over to Dandi's house for tea.  Very nice!  He also introduced us to his sister who runs the Khumbu Lodge, where we returned to for dinner.  

Here are some things that I won't miss when I get home:  spam, weiners, cabbage, mysterious sauces, deep fried veggies & fruit, yak cheese, canned fruit, bread & jam, porridge, etc.  Even with all the potatoes we've eaten, I'm still ok with them.  They've all been good and cooked well.  Also - the soup was nice every day.  

After dinner everyone emptied out their first-aid kits and medical supplies/drugs.  Some went to the team (primarily Geljen who has small children) and some stuff (especially prescription meds) will go to the hospital.  The task for tomorrow is to keep our kit bags at 15kg and load up our day packs with any excess.  We're going to try to catch a 10am flight, so tea at 7.      

October 30, 2012

 Day 20.  Sanasa (11,811'/3600m) to Chumoa (~9,235'/2815m)

I had a very productive start to the day.  Washed my hair and bought some earrings and a pendant - all before 7am!  It turns out they did in fact have the earrings that I was looking for yesterday, and the matching pendant as well - 1500 rupees.  We were on the trail by 7:35am.  It took a while to find the sun, but so lovely once we were in the sunshine.  It was an easy 1.5 hours to Namche, and after some hot juice we were on our own until lunch at noon.  Helen and Steve had a bad experience with their rental gear provider; they got almost none of their deposit back and Sangye was not able to negotiate anything on their behalf.

Namche

Apparently my appetite is back.  I ate a Toblerone bar and some "butterfly cookies" at the German bakery while shopping before lunch.  I bought some slippers, a hat, and a DVD.  We were on our way again shortly after 1, and got to Chumoa about 3:45.  I had forgotten just how much uphill there had been going to Namche.  OMG; no wonder I was wiped by the time I got there!  Halfway down the hill from Namche we had our last view of Everest.  Bye-bye....  We are gradually losing the high Himalayas and into more of the interlocking big hills.  Along the way today we had to "check-out" at a couple of National Park checkpoints.  

Last sighting of Mount Everest

We are staying at the same place at Chumoa as we did on the way in.  I'm making up for lost pounds - I ate lots of cookies at tea and am now raiding the M&Ms.  I don't think the pants are going to be any looser by the time we get to Kathmandu.  

It might be shorts weather tomorrow!  Dinner was amazing - real chicken, dal bhat, potatoes, radish/carrot/tomato appie, green veggies, and cake for dessert.  Liba handed out the tips to all our guides and porters and thanked them all.  The chang (rice beer) and jumping tea (rum) started to flow, followed by much dancing until about 11:30.  Yawn!  It was a very fun evening for all.    

Sangye (L) and his beautiful granddaughter

Dawa, Dandi, Liba, Sangye, Geljen

October 29, 2012

 Day 19.  Machermo (14,468'/4410m) to Sanasa (11,811'/3600m)

As we continue to lose elevation, I've come off the Diamox and certainly had to pee less last night.  But - I was still up a few times and glad for the opportunity to sky/moon-watch.  My appetite is getting better too.  I think I actually ate all my breakfast for a change - a fried egg and a pancake.  It was about -5C in the tent at wake-up time.

We had a bit of an uphill to climb out of the valley first thing this morning.  Then is was largely downhill.  I saw my first tree (rhododendron) at 10:21!  We had great views all day - Cho Oyu, Cholatse, and finally Ama Dablam near the end of the day. 

I'm feeling better as we lose altitude, gain temperature and eventually gain trees again.

We still have Cho Oyu in the background

Village of Phortse in the middle of the pic

Very excited about seeing trees again

Village of Phortse.  Ama Dablam in the background.

We had to climb for about an hour right after lunch (Phortse Thanga).  Then it was largely downhill yet again.  Lunch today was french fries (yum), fish (good), cheese (yak/yuck), beans (ok), and some type of bread with jam in the middle.  I managed to eat most of it except for the cheese and bread.  The dal bhat that the Nepalis eat every day always looks good; not sure why we don't have that more often.  My guess is that they think we would prefer "western" food.  Not necessarily.....  

It's starting to get quite warm.  I was down to just one layer for most of the day.  That layer was my heavy merino wool shirt; I'll probably want to downgrade that tomorrow.  

I followed Geljen, Lenka, and Dan most of the day, and sometimes Steve and Helen.  I lost touch with the front three coming into Sanasa and was a bit lost for a bit.  I wandered through town and found nothing there, so I waited for Helen & Steve and we spotted some porters.  We followed them about 10 to 15 minutes further towards Namche.  Even then, the camping spot was pretty well hidden down an alleyway between two buildings.  Once I found it, I went back to the shopping tables where I saw some earrings last week.  They were no longer there but I got a similar pair.  I had time for a quick wet-one wipe-down and then to the dining room for tea and eventually dinner.  It still cools off quickly once we lose the sun but hopefully the night will be a bit warmer with the loss of elevation.  The dining room is quite warm but I don't dare take off my toque!  

Between tea and dinner I watched a beautiful full moon rise over the mountains, just beside Ama Dablam - gorgeous!  We have an early day tomorrow - 6am!  The dzopkios must be close by tonight.  I can hear their bells through my earplugs.......