October 29, 2012

 Day 19.  Machermo (14,468'/4410m) to Sanasa (11,811'/3600m)

As we continue to lose elevation, I've come off the Diamox and certainly had to pee less last night.  But - I was still up a few times and glad for the opportunity to sky/moon-watch.  My appetite is getting better too.  I think I actually ate all my breakfast for a change - a fried egg and a pancake.  It was about -5C in the tent at wake-up time.

We had a bit of an uphill to climb out of the valley first thing this morning.  Then is was largely downhill.  I saw my first tree (rhododendron) at 10:21!  We had great views all day - Cho Oyu, Cholatse, and finally Ama Dablam near the end of the day. 

I'm feeling better as we lose altitude, gain temperature and eventually gain trees again.

We still have Cho Oyu in the background

Village of Phortse in the middle of the pic

Very excited about seeing trees again

Village of Phortse.  Ama Dablam in the background.

We had to climb for about an hour right after lunch (Phortse Thanga).  Then it was largely downhill yet again.  Lunch today was french fries (yum), fish (good), cheese (yak/yuck), beans (ok), and some type of bread with jam in the middle.  I managed to eat most of it except for the cheese and bread.  The dal bhat that the Nepalis eat every day always looks good; not sure why we don't have that more often.  My guess is that they think we would prefer "western" food.  Not necessarily.....  

It's starting to get quite warm.  I was down to just one layer for most of the day.  That layer was my heavy merino wool shirt; I'll probably want to downgrade that tomorrow.  

I followed Geljen, Lenka, and Dan most of the day, and sometimes Steve and Helen.  I lost touch with the front three coming into Sanasa and was a bit lost for a bit.  I wandered through town and found nothing there, so I waited for Helen & Steve and we spotted some porters.  We followed them about 10 to 15 minutes further towards Namche.  Even then, the camping spot was pretty well hidden down an alleyway between two buildings.  Once I found it, I went back to the shopping tables where I saw some earrings last week.  They were no longer there but I got a similar pair.  I had time for a quick wet-one wipe-down and then to the dining room for tea and eventually dinner.  It still cools off quickly once we lose the sun but hopefully the night will be a bit warmer with the loss of elevation.  The dining room is quite warm but I don't dare take off my toque!  

Between tea and dinner I watched a beautiful full moon rise over the mountains, just beside Ama Dablam - gorgeous!  We have an early day tomorrow - 6am!  The dzopkios must be close by tonight.  I can hear their bells through my earplugs.......