Just trying to remember the start of each day is a challenge; it seems so very long ago! I had an ok, but not great, sleep. I have to get used to sleeping on the ground and in a tent & sleeping bag again. The temperature was great - just slept in my liner with my sleeping bag over me. I had to get up twice during the night; apparently I’m drinking enough! To say that the toilet was rather basic would be an understatement. It’s just a hole in the ground inside a wooden shed. You certainly need good knees to squat down. I couldn’t have done that in the months after knee surgery. That’s the outhouse in the background by the trees.
Paule had an issue with her sleeping bag this morning. She had put a vapour barrier bag over her sleeping bag and while she was cozy all night, when she removed the cover in the morning the bag was really wet. It’s not a down bag so hopefully it will be ok.
Tea was delivered to our tents at 7am, followed by a washing bowl of hot water at 7:30. A lovely breakfast of pancakes and eggs was served around 8, and we were on our way by 8:45.
Liba warned us to go slowly today. Our net elevation gain was about 800m (about 2600m to about 3400m), although there were lots of ups and downs especially early in the day. We had a great view of a lovely white peak right from camp.
Our camp was pretty much right beside the trail so we saw lots of comings and goings as we were getting ready, including some really huge loads on the backs of porters. Sangye’s daughter and granddaughter were there to see us off.
We have just 6 porters. Apparently most of the heavy camp and food stuff was sent ahead on 5 dzopkios.
The guidebook talks about “graceful conifers and rhododendrons” in this area, and sure enough here is evidence. After crossing the Kyashar Khola we passed through another village - Monjo - before coming to the Sagarmatha National Park entrance. In the village that we passed through we saw a group of teenage boys putting gel in their hair with a toothbrush and mirror. It was pretty funny and a good reminder about the similarity of teenage concerns anywhere in the world.
At the entrance to the park Liba told us of the history of the building there. Apparently the area used to be heavily wooded and there was just a simple entrance, but the Maoists got in the habit of robbing them of the cash entrance fees paid by all the visitors. Now there is a substantial clearing and new building (built in 2006). The Sagarmatha National Park was established in July 1976 with assistance from the New Zealand government, and was declared a World Heritage Site in 1979. Visitors are prohibited from cutting firewood within the park, which includes an area of 1148 sq km.
Once we were inside the national park the vegetation once again became very thick and lush. There were still quite a few ups and downs as well as three suspension bridge crossings (today) before the uphill began in earnest.
Here’s our final crossing of the Dudh Kosi before we head uphill towards Namche.
We went really slowly uphill (about 700m), with lots of breaks. We stopped for a snack break at Top Danda - about halfway up the hill - and our first view of Mount Everest.
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| Our first view of Mount Everest |
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| Mountain goats (tahr) |
We eventually made it to Namche and although the clouds were starting to move in, we did have some pretty incredible mountain views. Can hardly wait until the (hopefully) clear morning skies. I had a few moments of “wow - I’ve seen this place in movies so many times but I really can’t believe I’m actually here”.
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| Police post at the entrance to Namche |
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| Final climb to Namche |
Initially we saw lots of garbage on the streets in Namche but it seemed to improve as we went on. It’s quite a large village with all the buildings built on a horseshoe-shaped hill or huge natural amphitheatre.
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| This is the main trail through Namche |
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| More of the main trail through Namche |
We’re staying in the dirt courtyard of the Sakura Lodge. I had a full hot lunch and am definitely not (yet) losing any weight on this trip. I love the Tibetan bread and need to learn how to make it. It’s obviously a luxury stay for us - separate men’s and women’s flushies, plus a sink and soap! But since we’re camping outside our night-time toilet is a hole in the floor of the barn, also in the courtyard.
While yesterday was an “at peace” day for me, today is “I wonder what lies ahead, how will I feel and how will I handle it”. I’m on the lookout for signs of AMS. I think I’m ok so far although I may start Diamox tomorrow morning. The cough I started in Calgary before I left seems to be moving to my chest and the heat rash & swollen legs that I started to develop yesterday are no better today. The cold weather ahead should take care of that, though.
It started to rain a bit after lunch so I hung out in the tent for a while. Then I went out shopping and just bought some chocolate bars for the days ahead. We had dinner back at the lodge. Not much protein... Acclimatization day tomorrow.
