October 28, 2012

 Day 18.  Gokyo (15,584'/4750m) to Machermo (14,468'/4410m)

It started snowing yesterday afternoon while we were in the tents before dinner.  It continued for a bit and accumulated to a few centinmetres.  Liba recorded -8C in her tent this morning.  Everything was a bit frosty!  While the surrounding landscape was very beautiful with a coat of fresh snow on it, I didn't want to risk crappy footing coming down Gokyo Ri.  Besides, I was probably too tired and weak anyway.  My cough is still pretty ugly.  In any case - I passed on scampering up there.  Dan, Lenka, and Helen went up.  It took them about 2 hours, and they spent almost an hour at the top.  The views apparently were fabulous.  They got back in to camp between 3:45 and 4:30.  

Gokyo Ri

Cho Oyu (8210m/26,906') as seen from Goyko

Dudh Pokhari (aka Gokyo Lake)

Meanwhile, the rest of us left Gokyo shortly after 9.  It was a really pleasant and scenic (and net downhill) walk today.  Very little uphill to speak of.  We passed by several stunning lakes and along some rip-roaring glacial run-off.  I had Sangye as my personal guide most of the way.  Since it was a short walk, we had the tents out early enough to dry the sleeping bags out for a bit.  They stitched together the bottom of my kit bag and I got the pins back.  I got in my tent after lunch and had a little nap.  I missed tea time!  But, no great loss as I had a fairly big lunch.  It seems like days since I've seen Vladka eat anything; I hope she's doing OK.  The dining room is heated pretty well today, but the water in the indoor toilet is already frozen at 5pm.  The outdoor toilet is barn-style - oh joy...  We're camping in the yak field beside the lodge.

Approaching the second lake - TabocheTsho

Congrats to Helen, Lenka, and Dan!  We had pizza for dinner that was actually pretty good.  After dinner the "chang" (rice beer) came out and all the guides, cooks, porters, and Pemba joined us in the dining room.  They put on quite the dancing performance!  They were joined by the women who run the lodge as well as a neighbour.  A good time was had by all, but apparently this is just a warm-up for the final night.

There is a beautiful clear sky tonight and almost a full moon.  The mountains are highlighted perfectly!  And - my boots are really beginning to stink!!  

October 27, 2012

 Day 17.  Thangnak (15,420'/4700m) to Gokyo (15,584'/4750m)

We're back to the original plan for today and tomorrow, which gives us the chance to go up Gokyo Ri tomorrow morning (better chance for clear skies/good views), and then go to Machermo tomorrow night.  Apparently Sangye had altered the plan because he hadn't brought enough kerosene (and perhaps food) to Gokyo.  But - he will send a porter to Machermo to retrieve some kerosene so that we're back to Plan A.  

Last night the lodge was heaven!  1500 rupees, but the comforter was to die for, and I gradually started stripping off clothes.  Socks, fleece pants, tops layers..... until I just had on shorts and a long-sleeved base layer.  Ahhh....  

We left about 8:45 this morning.  It was a cool walk, as we were crossing the rock-covered Ngozumpa Glacier most of the way.  We had good views of Cho Oyu ahead and Cholatse behind.  The glacier that we travelled over was very interesting and ever-changing, although it did have lots of ups and downs. 

Our first view of Cho Oyu

This the glacier underfoot

Cho Oyu

Frozen lake within the glacier

Still on the glacier with Cho Oyu in the background

Gokyo is right beside a beautiful lake, which is similar to the colour of Lake Louise.  It was a fairly short walk today, about 2.5 hours.  I'm still feeling fairly easily winded with the least little bit of uphill.  Not sure how I'll fare in Gokyo Ri tomorrow. 

Approaching Gokyo

Gokyo Lake

I didn't have much for breakfast today - hot chocolate, an egg, a bit of granola and a bite of pancake.  I managed a bit more for lunch - spam, beans, potatoes, bread, and fruit cocktail.  Steve shared some Oreos, and I had some jerky and a Kit Kat.  Gotta say, though, that the Oreos and Kit Kat didn't even taste very good.  

We have a choice of camping or a lodge tonight.  We chose camping.  Other than last night (with the lovely comforter), I usually prefer sleeping in my tent.  It clouded over (as usual) shortly after noon and now (about 4pm) it's starting to get quite chilly.  Time for tea?  

They stuffed Liba's blue kit bag inside mine for transport today and now I have pretty much a blue tube.  It's a bit of a concern since I sent my hockey bag to Machermo and just have a garbage bag inside my blue bag.  I rounded up and used all my safety pins, and hopefully that will hold until the end of the trip.  

There is a Sherpa art gallery here and also some small shops selling books, candy, and toiletries.  We saw two large (huge) eagles by the lake during lunch.     

October 26, 2012

 Day 16.  Dzonglho (15,912'/4850m) to Thangnak (15,420'/4700m) via Cho La (17,782'/5420m)

I've gotta say that I think I hit a new low last night.  I was pretty cold in the tent, and hugged my hot water bottle all night long.  I was parched but somehow couldn't even find the energy or willpower to expose enough skin to take a drink.  I did, though, have a good long drink every time I got up and out to pee.  The benefit of having to get up in the night is that you get to see the magical Himalayan sky!  The moon is over half full now, so it's up later and throws more light.  Amazingly gorgeous!!

Dinner last night was spaghetti.  I had lots of noodles but couldn't stomach the sauce.  I had the carrots but left the cabbage.  So many people are sick that Steve has taken to calling the dining tent the cough-a-teria.  We had a special treat to recognize the summiteers - cake with chocolate icing and white writing.  It was big enough to feed all of us, including all the staff.  

With a long day ahead today, bed tea was at 6:30am.  We split our belongings in 2 again this morning.  We each have a light-ish bag to go over the pass with us (well with the porters, technically) which will last us three days.  All of the rest of our stuff will go via dzopkio and meet us in Machermo.  The pass (Cho La) is not fit for dzopkios. 

The dawn of another beautiful day.

The day started out as a pleasant walk - little bit up, little bit down.  We crossed a river and then the uphill began in earnest.  It was amazing to see the dexterity and endurance of the many porters plying this route; most in ill-fitting sneakers.  We were treated to great views and lots of opportunities to stop (and catch my breath (and cough)) and take a look.  We left camp shortly after 8am and made it to the top of the rock wall section by 11.  This stuff would classify as a good scramble at home!  After not seeing anyone for a while, I found Dan and Lenka up there having a snack.  

Cho La Pass is in sight!

Cho La Pass

I kept going toward the glacier where Dandi was to help us and show us the way.  He was hard at work by the time I saw him.  He was busy fetching gravel to put on tricky parts of the ice in order to give us better footing.  None of us had crampons or microspikes.  I managed to get to the true top of the pass around noon.  

Then came a huge downhill.  It was mostly very steep and filled with boulders.  I was very cautious and slow.  Since I didn't stop much on the way up, I ended up travelling down with Dandi, Dan, and Lenka.  I really slowed them down but they were good about it.  As soon as we got over the pass we were into a very different landscape.  Down, down, down and finally to an old "base camp" where the cooks had hot drinks and lunch waiting for us.  They had my favourite soup (noodles & greens), cheese (a no-go for me) and a tiny piece of fish.  It was quite windy there.  I layered up with all the clothes I had with me, including my windpants and down jacket; I didn't linger.  Then more up & down as we headed toward Thangnak.  Dawa met us along the trail with a hot drink; how thoughtful!  Lenka stopped to take off her boot and appeared to have a tender ankle.  This really became an issue later in the day and by bedtime she couldn't put any weight on it.  Upon arrival in Thangnak at about 3:20 I went into the lodge for a mint tea and a huge plate of french fries.  I had had a Clif Bar at the pass and some soup for lunch, but I was pretty hungry.  

I found it a very tough day today, between the terrain (both up and down) and the ongoing exhaustion from coughing.  We stayed in the lodge tonight.  The beds had really yummy-looking comforters and I'm looking forward to being warm.  Steve and Helen were next in at about 4:20.  Vera & Vladka arrived shortly after that along with Sangye.  Liba & Geljen didn't arrive until dusk; about 5:30.