Day 12. Lobuche East Base Camp (17,356'/5290m)
Rest day today. I'm not really sure that we're at the base camp mentioned in the book. I think we're a bit below 5,000m. It's the last night of my cough pills so hopefully it won't be too bad going forward. Got a bit chilly last night. I don't often get cold at night but I had on 2 layers of bottoms, 3 layers of tops and was snuggled right up in my sleeping bag. With all those layers on there was not much room in there to move around! What a difference the sun makes By noonish it was too hot to be in the tent even without being in the sleeping bag. The view from the tent isn't too shabby.
We had a rather leisurely start to the day. Tea, wash water, breakfast. Then we found our climbing equipment and put on our harnesses. Dandi fixed my prusik and gave me a jumar to use. I think probably Liba and I were the best prepared in terms of bringing all of the expected equipment. But - Dandi and Sangye made do with what we had. We all went up and down a practice rope a few times. The porters and dzopkio driver's son got a great kick out of watching us prep and practice.
Helen is feeling pretty awful today - sore throat, etc. - but is a trouper. After practice I had time for a little lay-down in my scorching tent and then some lunch. I'm really trying to eat and hydrate today. I had some jerky and some gorp along with trying to drink lots of water. The wind is really starting to pick up; perhaps not a good sign for tomorrow.
About 11 - after our lesson - Sangye, Dandi, Geljen and Dawa headed up the mountain to set some ropes that we will be using in 2 days. At some point I have to sort through my stuff to decide what to take up and what to leave behind. I'm still incredibly tired from doing absolutely nothing today! Although - I have no headache. I'm also able to eat a bit more and a bit faster. There may be hope!
The 4 guides were back in camp before 4! Less than 5 hours!! We'll be going quite a bit slower....over two days..... Apparently there is a Korean team on the mountain to the right as we're looking at them. They have had to bivouac for 3 nights; brrr!
The sun was behind the mountains by about 3 and the temperature took its daily dive. Helen wasn't going to come to dinner, but had second thoughts when Steve brought some soup to their tent. Almost everyone is suffering. We sound like a hospital ward. Dan and Lenka seem to be faring the best, but even Lenka had a bit of a headache at dinner. Dinner was veggies and spaghetti. Fuel for the first part of our climb tomorrow! I'm glad I asked for my sauce on the side; it was awful.
We had beautiful moonlight on Lobuche again tonight. So nice......
There were people coming and going along the trail in the distance all day. They look so tiny with the huge mountains as a background!



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